Makeup: The Science Behind the Styles

The scoop

Whether it’s a smokey shadow, volumizing mascara, smoothing foundation, or sensual fine liner, many have likely hardly put much thought behind the history and science behind their favorite looks. I’ve applied a little common sense(and a bit of scientific process) to the topic, and through observations on global trends have come up with a few ideas on practical purposes behind the products and styles we use today.

The use of makeup has been in use for millenia, and I found myself pindering why many of us even go to the trouble of taking the time to apply product. Surely it couldn’t just be chicked up to booosting attraction…or could it? Yes and no.

My search led me to become interested in the reason that more often than it not it seems that it’s women rather than men who apply cosmetic products. Since undergoing estrogen hormone therapy, I’ve taken into account the differences in the effects on my skin, and the effects hormones and genetics have on gene expression. Men’s skin tends to be thicker overall, and less prone to drying compared to women’s skin due to higher collagen levels. This is compounded by the fact that estrogen treatment (and estrogens in general) tends to leave many fair skinned individuals predisposed to sunburn and dessication. If you look at middle eastern clothing styles, there is often a focus on light breathable clothing that covers the skin and hair. There is a scientific backing for the use of burkhas, headwraps, and eye makeup: sun protection.

Shadow

Have you ever noticed a sun bleached flag, or sign? What’s the first color to fade? Red. What’s the last color to fade out? Blue. This is due to the difference in wavelengths across the color spectrum. Application of a blue shadow would likely block most of the light that could cause excess drying to the oh-so sensitive upper lids, although any color would provide some benefit in this regard. Also, due to their mineral content and pigmentation most eyeshadows would likely provide some sun protection in addition to their glamorizing effects, by way of preventing the effects of “snow blindness” by reflecting ambient light that bounces off of pavement or  desert sand.

The risks of shadow

It is worth noting that many eyeshadows contain Talc, a type of asbestos, in their list of ingredients(yes the same talc that a few years back was removed from baby powder due to the carcinogenic effects posed by the fine nanoscopic particles that are capable of disrupting DNA sequence).

A collection of Asbestotiform minerals from my personal collection. Notice the white Talc center bottom row.

Thankfully, I’ve noticed that many brands are beginning to offer talc free alternatives to their product line in response to the growing trend in alarm around this health risk.(Although I will admit, I’m not a bit too deterred from using these products, as I’ve encountered a fair amount of the mineral asbestos in my experience working on automobiles.)

Mascaras

Mascaras have a noticeable effect on the volume and length of eyelashes, and once again we can turn to our environment and and genetics for practical clues why we use these.

It turns out that the gene related to long eyelash length is carried on the Y chromosome, and those who are born without it are often the same who are applying mascara. The practical reason for application of mascara is simple: extend eyelashes so they do their job of keeping debris out of the eye more efficiently.  This is awesome because historically ragweed season here in sunny Texas where I’m writing this has often proved brutal to allergy sufferers. (Say yes to water proof!)

Foundation

Who doesn’t like the look of a smooth complexion? The use of foundation is also for sun protection, as the layer on top of the skin of the face can provide a useful block against UV rays. Many products already have sunblock in them, including certain primers, and thank goodness for that, as the use of foundation as a sun block is often a double edged sword, and where people who opt to cover their face seem to have an advantage over those who don’t. (Hats?) Historically, many powder foundations in victorian England reportedly contained Arsenic as an ingredient. I think it goes without saying that that probably didn’t do much good for the complexion of those who wore it! Thankfully, we have long since abandoned the use of Arsenic as an ingredient in makeup, so this is no longer an issue. Regardless, as many of you reading this know, some types of foundation often seem to not do many favors for skin health, as clogged pores are often reported with many wearers with certain formulations. It’s for this reason among others why many choose to forgo it’s use for other methods of beautification. I’ve been advised by my derma add more water intake to the diet, and cut simple carbs, alcohol, and caffeine as it this seems to lend a reduction in redness. (Say no to the soda, sweets, and frappes!)

In summary

In concluding with this article, I’d like to say that as with many topics, there many unforseen challenges in the ongoing quest for whole body wellness and beauty. However, everyday we are making strides in a more positive direction and things are looking up, as there have been efforts made already in 2022 and 2023 to amend many of the issues already covered in this article. I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this post, and I hope you’ll return for more as they are written! Cheers!       

-Andrea

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